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Thursday, March 18th, 2010 |
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Seoul, Korea Sejong Art festival GIAF |
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I must preface this journal with a personal Thank You to Pearl Park and Gustav Yim of Asto Museum Gallery for inviting me. And to fellow artist, Alicia Hong for showing me her Korea, via family and friends. Hence this is the very first time I have not prepared points of interest, subway routes and the like. I simply followed, participated and became immersed in the Korean culture. The Korean flag is called Taegeukgi. The design has a circle in the centre divided into two equal parts - the red yin represents the proactive cosmic forces of the yang - Conversely the blue represents the responsive cosmic forces of the yin. Balance and Harmony. Around the white are a set of three lines cut into six parts each representing the four elements of earth, water, fire, and heaven. The National flower is the Mugunghwa (Rose of Sharon) - a very tenacious flower, like her people. Itinerary for Artists in Seoul 3/27 (Mon) - arrival 8:30pm arrival in Inch eon Airport 3/28 (Tues) -installation - City tour for artists 3/29 (Wed) - Opening Reception - supported by Hyro Rym 3/30 (Thurs) - being at gallery - personal time 331 (Fri) - being at gallery - personal time 4/1 (Sat) - being at gallery - personal time 4/2 (Sun) - being at gallery - off to art camp 4/3 (Mon) - art camp - East Sea) 4/4 (Tues) - return from art camp - check gallery and close up 4/5 Tokyo, Japan for me - ASTO and GROUP leave 4/6 12:30pm for Los Angeles ************************** Artists from ASTO participation: Mariano Cinat - Argentina - came in day later Lix Mario -Columbia Alejandro Martinez - Mexico - did not attend Fernando Romo - Mexico - did not attend Gegam Kacherian - Armenian Grant Avakyan - Armenian - did not attend Samvel Hambardzumyan - Armenian - did not attend Vera Arutyunyan- Armenian - did not attend Alicia Hong - Korea/Canada Erika Wain - Canada Norma Jean Squires - Canada - did not attend Renee Amitai - France - did not attend Maria Shicker - Germany - did not attend Diana Shui-iu Wond - Hong Kong - did not attend Ahmad Morshedi - Iran Fumiko Amano - Japan - did not attend Hideo Sakata - Japan - did not attend Masura Shichinohe - Japan - did not attend Seifu Nichijima - Japan - did not attend Shuji Taeishi - Japan Alex Couwenberg - USA - did not attend Barbara Nathanson - USA Denise Scott - USA Ed Flynn - USA - did not attend Gina Han - USA Ione Citrin - USA - did not attend Jung Byung (J.B.) - USA - came late Jane Castillo - USA - did not attend Kay Gott - USA - did not attend Maria Deveneux - USA - did not attend Minjung Kim - USA/Korea - Pearl Park - USA/Korea Richard Godfrey - USA - did not attend Stevie Love - USA Wayne Godfrey Niemand - USA - did not attend Renee associate curator accompanied from Asto Museum Gallery - a young attractive gal in her 20's originally from Seoul. ******************** The artist group in Seoul was as diversified as could be. LixMario, a tall well-built dark haired man from Columbia is a sculptor with a ready smile and a warm heart, searching always for the next idea to transform into metal. Very serious about his endeavours and very lucky in finding both sponsorship for materials and tutoring he is a man ready to marry both art and personal life together. Mariano, an Argentinean painter with whom I had traveled through Berlin and Hamburg the previous year in September and with whom contact in Los Angeles was constant, is a gregarious sort, easy going who loves to dance and participate. Mariano is a fluid, unrestricted sort of guy - sloppy chic. He was ready for a life change. Stevie Love and Bruce were new to me though we must have passed each other at some point in Los Angeles through the ASTO Museum Gallery. Stevie works with paint on canvas - It is the paint not the subject that is of importance - the squeezed paint that globs into dots neatly arranged on a page. I was to find out at the art camp that she was a very accomplished free hand sketch artist. Her husband, Bruce is a good looking tall fellow with short-cropped blond hair and glowing tan. He is an anthropologist of pre Columbian artifacts who together and separately have traveled all over the Americas, did the 60's political scene, raised a family and are grandparents. Both are active and interested people. Stevie has that all American girl next door/mother earth look in blond - they have a healthy weathered relationship and it was a pleasure to see friends in action. Barbara Nathanson from Los Angeles I had met through an organization called LELA and she and I had traveled last year to Ensenada together as part of an art camp. That is really where I 'met' Barbara. She works with 'evolving' materials built up on canvas or board. Her husband, Wes, is an actor whom I actually represented at the beginning of his career so many moons before in one of my 'other' lives. He put that together while on the bus tour. Wes teaches math/Physics at UCLA. A very vivacious man with a great sense of humour and a booming laugh. He loves to tell jokes and is quick with the repartee, and would easily go into song at the drop of a pin. Both have traveled extensively throughout the world, raised children and are grandparents. Wes is a consummate digital photographer. Gegam, an Armenian artist, was constantly on the prowl for artistic furtherment. He is married and has a child. He relished running on fast speed. He remained with the group but then disappeared the night before we went to the art camp. (Obviously in search of galleries). We only saw him again when we were all reunited at Barbara and Wes's house for the get together party evening. Denise is a mixed medium artist though sculpture is what was represented at this show. She has children, is a constant smoker, seemingly driven and inquisitive. JB, Jung, came in after the opening as he was in New York. I had met him in Los Angeles but really did not get to know him until the Berlin /Hamburg exhibition in 2005 where he and his wife Young Mo traveled with me. Jung did not participate in 'free' time excursions but remained at the gallery. He of course was in constant click mode as Jung goes nowhere without his camera. Also a constant smoker and solid drinker, whiskey being his first choice. Good natured and pleasant to be around. Young Mo did not join. Pearl and Gustav, our fearless leaders, were busy with organizing and making sure that everyone was happy. Both are Korean by birth with family in Seoul and surrounding areas. Both are driven with passion, with a robust zest for life and doing - fast talkers and movers, eating and drinking, dancing and experiencing. Both are married with children and spouses not in the business, though highly supportive. MinJung works on gradated stacked paper - as if in step relief. Ink line drawing and little colour. She is Korean by birth, married with a son. I met her in Berlin/Hamburg at the exhibition. A party girl with a big heart. Ahmad, an Iranian painter who works on wood - his style is folk with mysterious overtones of 'through the curtain'; blues and snow white; very soothing and yet challenging. I liked his work and he sold one piece. A married man - married to Gina Han - he adores his daughter. Gina Han is an interesting mixture of Korean who has lived in Paraguay and speaks several languages and has assimilated many cultures. Her work is similar to Stevie in that it deals with the blob of paint on wood that is flattened, looking like water drops, then spaced in regularity. Enamel. She was a wonderful mother, nurturing and ever attentive and together they make a harmonious family unit. Alicia, my friend with whom I traveled, became my friend during and after the Berlin/Hamburg adventure. We see one another regularly and share common interests and goals. We are both very art driven. We come from different cultural backgrounds and yet are learning to temper our responses - she is less volatile than I - less traveled. She is a talented artist who has grown through her work as both an artist and a person. She is a gal pal, as my daughter says of us. Her husband James, a well put together sensual man, is an artist in his own right - a metal worker with gates/fences - who has had his own business for years and one that is very successful. Both have children from previous marriages and both are totally supportive of the other's work and life dreams. Both are consummate karaoke enthusiasts who love to dance, eat, drink and make merry. They are fearless travelers. Erika, a Canadian artist who I know quite well, is considered a postmodern expressionist conceptual artist who is passionate about life and what I do. Non-judgmental though opinionated, well traveled, volatile though very laid back, loves to dance, eat and make merry. Interested in everything new and willing to try. A Scorpio - the red headed temperament now white with tiger stripes. Hmm - that sums it up neatly. ********************************* March 25 midnight red eye - Flight out was midnight red eye on Cathay Air/ British Air (March 25-26) from LAX to Seoul, Korea via Hong Kong (arrival 27th) - I thank British Air air miles redemption claim. Flight time 15 hours - lost a day in transit. My traveling 'partner' was a fellow from Florida who hauled boats down from the Boston area. He was originally from the Boston area himself, now divorced with children still 'in' school - an old navy fella - VietNam - who proudly wore a slick jacket of the American flag, jeans and sandals. Hippie to the end. Gerry. He had a great sense of humour, and a beautiful face (an artist's dream) and an ingratiating smile that could light up a room and Gerry was as nibble as a monkey; he insisting on climbing the arm of my seat to extricate items from his duffle stowed in the overhead compartment. Gerry was on his way to do a 'face-to-face' with an Internet gal with whom he had been chatting over a year's time. He was excited - she worked in computers. He vacillated between extreme enthusiasm and total anxiety - my response was - "what the hell - if this isn't the dream gal then you've met a new friend and had an interesting adventure in a place you've never been to - its only for 5 days." Lay over in Hong Kong was an hour and half - time enough to change some money, grab a bite to eat (first language barrier shock - usually I can find some one who speaks French or some other European language), and time to purchase the famous Dragon Beard Candy - an essence of 2,000years, so the story goes - an Imperial Chinese chef first crafted candies from ten thousand crystalline threads of malt sugar. The emperor was so taken with this culinary masterpiece he bestowed the noble title "Dragon Beard Candy'. It is pulled like taffy then folded over and pulled again all the while being dusted with a powdered sugar then stretched long, sprinkled with finely chopped nuts and sesame seeds folded over and then cut into large bite size pieces. What is amazing to see are the long crystalline hairs - almost like spun sugar but not - clearly crystal threads. It was the 'seeing' that caught my eye and hence my purse. Then a quick re-exchange of money and off on the final leg. Hong Kong airport is a large glass/steel structure surrounded by high rugged volcanic peaked mountains (reminiscent of King Kong's native island ala the films) seen through a low-lying mist. Positively entrancing. The runway is long and narrow, water lapping the left side of the landing field - of high-rise clusters, large looming white towers, sprouting out of the land and surrounding water. Hong Kong - to be visited another time. Cathay Air from LAX takes a northerly route over Alaska, into Russian Siberia (flight over Russian air) then turns towards names like Hanoi, Vietnam, Philippines, Laos, Bangkok, Manila, Sapporo, Ho chi Minh City, Taipei, Shanghai, Naha, Taichung, Okinawa, China Sea, Tokyo, Xiamen, Philippine Sea, Seoul, to Hong Kong (all these 'magical' names appear on the flight manifest as one watches the flight path). Now to backtrack, I circle back up to Seoul from Hong Kong - two and half hour flight. ********** Arrival time 2:30pm the 27thMarch. Alicia, my fellow artist, greets me accompanied by an old school chum and we then prepare to 'hang' until 8:30pm - the arrival of the other artists coming in from Los Angeles on American Air with Pearl Park and Gustav Kim, curators and arrangers of the exhibition participation. Time spent chatting, a quick dinner and then sorting out of baggage as we greet the incoming flight. We headed out from the airport at Inch eon to Sejon Centre that would be the sight of the GIAF Art Exhibition. There the housing would be divied up. Barbara Nathanson and husband Wes, LixMario, Mariano Cinat, Gegam Kacherian went to Pearl's family; Stevie Love and husband (to join later, Bruce the anthropologist), Ahmad Morshedi and wife/artist Gina Han with baby would go to Minjung and I would join James and Alicia Hong at their lodgings - The Millennium Hotel near his sister's house. So basically we all shared the show and events together but experienced completely different venues of living styles and districts of Seoul City itself. The Millennium was about one hour outside the city proper - a highly neoned area with shops and saunas (a mainstay of Korean life), tall cluster apartments (ala Berlin / outside Amsterdam proper) identified by individual large numbers or quick picture (dog, chicken, business brand) surrounded by immaculately kept grounds. Large chalk white buildings clustered in groups of 4 or 8 buildings. Subway and bus connections were plentiful and easily gotten to. We took a cab with the bags and settled in - One large room with one large bed - I took to the floor with mats and a large comforter. (This was how I would sleep for the duration of the trip - on the floor on an assortment of mats). A note: all the floors in Korea are heated and on the whole the houses are kept at a warm/almost steamy temperature - counters the cold and damp from outside. The heating is now done through ******** March 28- Tuesday - Breakfast was 'traditional Korea' as were all the meal eaten with Alicia and James - breakfast in a restaurant - heated floors - shoes removed - soup-like entrée with either beef or fish or a cream like loose pudding base with vegetables or in my case chunks of blood pudding or possibly a large bladder - not quite sure - but it tasted bland and somewhat slick though dry, with glass noodles, some vegetables - small bowls of kimchi (a cabbage) in a variety of cooked and raw styles varying in spiciness (the red pepper was introduced to Korea from Europe through Japan in the 17th Century) - a long bean like pepper that is crunchy, though not to be confused with its 'cousin' which is extremely hot (I made that mistake several times) - bowl of rice, sometimes the spicy rice cakes variation japchae/tteokppokki which looks like large deep-dish omelet pizza with anything from thinly sliced beef and vegetables to squid or seafood folded inside, very tasty and light - shot of soju (Korean sake) and tea (grain tea of barley or roast corn) and plenty of water, always. We headed out to Sejon Centre where the art exhibition was to be held - This would be our first view of it. We took a cab into the city proper, about one hour+ away (his brother-in law owned his own car)- interesting route passing from one neighbourhood to another - one time frame to another - an older city and more rural life to the exploding centre of Seoul - a mixture of the 30's and contemporary architecture. Our cab merged into the crowded roads teeming with buses and cars from every price range imaginable, passing through older rural areas landscaped by granite hills and barren trees with giant crow nests visible from a great distance. The buildings were old brick and the overall feeling was that of an older Boston/eastern town. As we neared Seoul proper the landscape of brick merged into high-rise glass and steel structures, banners and neon everywhere. Banners and motorcycles. Home Depot Mom and Pop. Tires. Brooms. Pots and pans. Economic growth. Seoul was an impoverished economic base until the advent of the Internet - and the true emergence of Hyundai and other car manufacturers who honed their production and cut their costs and entered the market on a big scale. The city is a microcosm of high end wealth and minimum existence; of posh high rises to medium priced cluster apartments to stacked housing with absolutely no breathing space between - I saw no graffiti or indigents living on the streets. Seoul is mountainous in an urban setting. We had arrived early so we took in a Starbuck's where I enjoyed a sweet potato pie roll which was more a sweet apple tart and some ginseng tea. There we joined up with our fellow artists - each having something to tell of the first night's experience. Today was City Bus Tour - James left us for appointments with his friends and Alicia decided to join. As the bus trekked through the city one was encouraged to get off and on at will to take in the sights and sounds - some of the venues closed depending on the day - I clicked and clicked through the half tinted windows. We passed the New Seoul Train Station and the Yongsan Station then wended our way through the streets to the National Museum of Korea. A sprawling edifice covering 76 acres of land - a 'Getty' in Seoul - built of granite and glass. The structure is long and high - reminiscent of Musee D'Orsey in Paris - the former train station. It is 400m wide with exhibit spaces totaling about 6.6 acres with a collection of about 11,000 works of art. The National Art Museum of Korea is the 6th largest museum in the world. Its exhibitions are extensive: The East wing is a three story building housing Archeological, Historical, Fine Arts 1, Fine Arts 1, Asian Art and Donated and 46 other showrooms - major cultural properties from every par of the Korean Peninsula that span every age. The museum is truly an architectural delight to feast one's eyes on - a photographer's heaven. And even though there was not a bloom in sight one could 'see' the cherry blossoms spotting the gently rolling hills, the scrub brush, the lily pads in the standing waters, the red leaves of trees and long green plants already familiar to Californians gardeners here and there.. And even in its bareness there was a quiet beauty - graceful wood braces holding thin stalks with long extending rattan ties tapped into wooden pegs. All very esthetic. Past Gate Gwanghwamun and Deoksugung Palace (closed), past the universities EWHA and the New Seoul University - not in order of course of the drive itself. And onward past the War Museum - the giant sculpture of the soldier and the man clinging to him in brotherhood and distress. A very wrenching piece on the complexities of humanity. Then up the steep drive to the 'base' camp (lunch stop - ahhh that wonderful red bean sauce heavily breathing sautéed onions over a thick noodle) prior to the additional hike leading further up to the Tower itself. The Seoul Needle Tower - radio/television - serves as an excellent landmark. Built on a 262-meter peak in Namsan Park, the tower reaches to 480 meters above sea level. "When the weather and pollution levels cooperate" (so says the guide book) visiting the observation tower (370 meters above sea level) gives one a view the entire city and surrounding areas. These are four brick cone shaped burning pots standing some 6-8 meter high which actually served as smoke signal funnels, used up until quite recently. One marvels at the odd stone cone piles that flank the path from the base level to the top portion of the path where the funnels stand. And again the large crow nests cluster in the barren tree limbs dotting the pathway. This trek is patronized by all ages, shapes and physical capabilities, as it appears to be a 'must do' thing. And it is. Onward through the city past Temple and Palace gates (East/ West/ North/ South) to the famed Changdeokung Palace - The home of the Monkey King (so called because of the carved monkeys that run the length of the roof rafters). This is without a doubt one of the treasures not to be missed - Sprawling over many acres Changdeokgung was constructed in 1405 as a secondary palace of the Joseon Dynasty. After Japanese invasion in 1592, it was rebuilt and served as the main palace for about 270 years. The Rear Garden or Secret Garden is truly a natural beauty and loved by many kings with its rectangular shaped pond and circular island in the centre. One enters a huge square once passing through the Donhwamun Gate first built in 1412. Building after building unfold unto courtyards that could easily hold several thousand people- few trees or shrubs - stark areas covered with gravel. But it is the doors and the shingles and the ridge tops that lie layered upon each other in brilliant colours of turquoise and salmon. Long stone walkways with small lions and slabs with inscriptions. Changdeokgung is the best-preserved palace of the Joseon Period and lies in perfect harmony with nature. UNESCO World Cultural Heritage registered it in 1997. The wind was cold and the day gray and somehow all blended into a time before as we passed silently through the grounds; intricate stone work on the walls, tiles with wonderful carvings and all this bordered by the modern city of today's housing, each atop the other - chim chim (stair like). Our last stop for the day would be to the art store and small street shops in and around Insa Dong. A few of us stopped for paper, brushes and other Korean art products, others wandered to souvenirs..(I would return for a truly good day of finds under a warmer sky). A final snack at a pastry shop (which helped warm up and invigorate Alicia who was now collapsing) and then back to the Sejon Center to split up for the evening. We were all exhausted yet thrilled at the day's wonders. Alicia and I headed back via subway that would become our mode of transportation - the others taking cabs or being picked up. Once back at the hotel Millennium we agreed on dinner first at a Kobe beef house serving Korean BBQ - a tasty beef dinner cooked at the table - through which a hole and an open fire pit served up the most delicious menu. Vegetables surrounded the pit all of which were either taken from directly or they themselves were placed on the grill aside the beef. A large Ashai beer and a bowl of rice were to accompany. And as usual we ended up chatting with the owner about our GIAF exhibition at Sejon - a sharp looking gal who had once been an artist herself, as a brochure showed. We invited her of course and were given a discount on the meal. All in all, a very tasty treat. We then headed out to the Sauna where we would wash away the day's exhaustion, and replace it with a renewed fervour. Not quite. The Sauna is a ritualistic part of life that is very dear to the Korean - both male and female, young, old and everything in between. The Saunas are separate - different buildings for the sexes though there are some with middle lounge rooms for couples. These are places for the like minded in body and mind to enjoy anonymity and simply soak in extremely hot tubs, sweat in dry or wet igloo shaped huts, dip into frigid waters to cool down, scrub or not with stiff rags or brushes, apply mud face if inclined, then to stretch out onto tile slabs to dry off and simply doze for an hour or more. Needless to say, all in the buff. By this time one is completely weakened and 'done to' by the heat and slab beds that the walk home in the brisk air, past midnight, seems somewhat refreshing. ******** A note on subways - clean, quick transportation. Not heavily crowded. Large posters of natural wonders mixed with cartoon like foods. Walls of tile depicting historical events. Car seats along the sides - not two by two thus giving more room for rush hour. ********** March 29 - Wednesday Breakfast - interesting again - a tofu house serving a variety accompanied with a variety of kimchi and soups and and and. Then off by subway to Lotte, the well known Mall shopping, to pick up a new suit that James had bought and had had altered yesterday while we were out on the town. Today is Opening day. And we are all dressed up and ready to Show and Tell. The store is located by the first and oldest Train Station now undergoing renovation with an eye to being a Museum. James had remembrances of a time when he was a child and it was from there that he entered into the city from the countryside. This was the sight of the first of many demonstrations - a group of young women were on strike (several days now) demanding a more full time opportunity. Much fanfare had been made over the days already on strike so to counter group of 'suits' arrived to settle with promises of a better time. It was fascinating to watch each group counter one another and the media switching focus from side to side. This took place in the new train station that leads out onto the shopping mall. With the 'new' man looking like a business mogul in his sharp new thin pin stripped black suit, crisp white shirt with blue stitching and hot pink tie we headed over to Sejong Art Centre. We signed in and signed books for the staff, signed T-Shirts for sale to the public, met with artists from all over Korea, forming quick bonds that would last throughout the exhibition days and maybe into the future. We took a quick moment to grab a cab and head over to meet Alicia's Vancouver friend Angie Min at a hotel on the East side. Angie runs a highly successful business called Dream i International that places students in collages around United States. Her service teaches them how to use the system. She has written two successful books. Alicia and Angie had known one another from Vancouver where they both lived; Angie's daughter still lives there. While they sit and reminisce in Korean, I wandered the hotel lobby then returned for a cool Ginseng cooler. Our visit lasted a little over an hour and then we were off and running back to the Sejong Centre to 'be there'. We had placed a call the day before to an artist with whom I had made contact some time prior in the year as I had seen her work on the Internet - I approached and we have been in contact ever since - and so today we were to meet. Eun-Kung Choi is a sculptor who works in clay and teaches at EWHA Woman's university. We arranged to have lunch on the side street across from the Centre - red bean sautéed onion sauce over thick noodle. My favourite dish. The actual Opening would be at 3:30-4pm so the morning gave us time to meet and mingle and discuss, roam the gallery - a large 5 room basement that flowed from one venue to another with approximately 88 Korean based artists en total. Half of those would show another week so the gallery space would actually house two different exhibits or one large one split and showing over a two-week period. Among the many artist I did meet was Eok Young Lee, an elderly feisty chap of 82 who specialized in historical illustrative painting. Although our actual communicative language was non existent the work itself erased any barrier. Smiles, bows, unaccustomed hand shakes and fingers pointing, arms a-swirling in air and voices laughing seemed to suffice. I mention him especially because throughout the exhibit period he and I would greet each other every time with warm hellos and bows and it was he who invited me to share a pivotal spot next to him at the ceremonial ribbon cutting. The 'Event' started with many long speeches in Korean by many different dignitaries from the city and from various organizations. I understood nothing, but I smiled and applauded. Then the event went upstairs and outside to the front steps where a large banner stretched across the building front announcing the GIAF 2006 Exhibition for cameras to capture. There was a fascinating sculpture by artist Jong Hae Jeong who had created a rider atop a spirited horse out of spare metal parts (bolts, pans, flatware, hub caps .)- a really fun piece with humour and great movement. The officials and Korean artists then formed a line, their backs to the building and the dancers and musicians. They were handed white gloves and a multi coloured heavy paper braid. I had just surfaced from below at the exhibit itself to find all this activity occurring - I started to step down towards some of my fellow artist when my friend Eok Young Lee spotted me and waved insistently to join the line. I was then handed the white gloves as I took my place as each of us took hold of the multi coloured braid. Cameras clicked and clicked and I felt both delighted to have been asked to join in this very special moment but also a tad guilty that my fellow artists had not been directly included. But what was a gal to do but take the braid and break it along side my new friends, cheer and good will in our hearts and the paper of togetherness as a reminder of the day and our visit. And all day long the bouquets of flowers kept coming in, one after another from friends and well wishers, from organizations and promoters - filling the entrance hall with fabulous colour, fragrance and exquisite visual delight. All the artist were busily chattering, working the inquisitive eye of a potential buyer, clicking and clicking to capture the moments. It was a delightful day, busy and happy tiring, and when it came to an end Alicia, James and I accompanied by the merry seven ladies (Alicia's elementary/jr high+ school friends) who had come from as far as 2 hours away to celebrate her triumphant return to Seoul dined in the Restaurant in the building. Much chatter and celebrating, hoisting of glasses - only Korean spoken. Then I, James, Alicia and her friend headed back to The Millennium via taxi. We had closed out our accommodations earlier that morning so when we returned we simply opened yet another set of accommodations - all luggage was at James' sister's house so necessities would have to wait until the morning retrieval - Alicia and friend took the bed; I again on floor. James took a private room, leaving us ladies to chatter on into the wee hours, in Korean of course. ******** March 30 - Thursday Breakfast - back to chunk blood pudding etc. same place as first day - familiar foods. Goodbyes to Alicia's friend - gathering of our bags from James's sister's house where we had left them when we closed out our hotel room the day before; quick shower back at the Millennium before closing out this final time and changing into fresh clothing then a quick subway to Sejon Centre for a day of 'hanging' and 'being there' with friends and fellow artists (this time taking our bags with us). - James hit the high road to visit his friends and Alicia and I headed out to meet friend Angie at her office as Alicia was bringing some artwork for possibly sale. The office, located in Su Cho Ki Bank Po Dong, was very neat, esthetically appealing and manned by a staff of 4. Angie purchased the garden vegetables - one of my favourites and we bundled the 'not chosen' up and headed out with her driver to the Ritz Carlton for a sumptuous luncheon. As this was catch up time for the old friends only Korean was spoken while I dined on my Mediterranean seafood appetizer and sipped on a bountiful bouquetted Pinot Noir all the while listening to the mellifluous sounds of the deftly played piano in the lobby - such indulgence. Small price to pay for silence. We then were returned to Sejon Centre by the young drive assistant - an enjoyable drive back chattering about places he had visited and schools he has interest in and goals for his future. His English was impeccable and he a delight. We returned to the exhibit to pass the shortened remainder of the day - my fellow artists queried many questions as to where and what we had been doing. Hoy Rym had planned an evening at his studio. We all divied up into cars - I driving with Pearl's husband and two other Koreans - again a state of imposed silence through the fields of white caterpillar mounds (the white nylon tented plant housing) that covered almost every inch of earth (harsh winter climate and inclement temperatures) protecting the crops - our caravan of cars traveled then turned off onto a dirt road. At the end lay a house/studio workspace with a food garden and chicken pen. The studio was a large open space with an additional space for storage of hundreds of art pieces. A low table, with floor cushions was set up off to the front section of the room leaving a whole section open for dancing later; paintings leaned against all available wall space; a long work table with cans of paint and a myriad of brushes ran along one of the walls. We were to relax throughout the late afternoon and evening in camaraderie, dancing, dining next to the hot coals of the BBQ pit with yet another lavish spread of kimchi delights, noodles, rice, beef, beer with soju chasers, to the throbbing music, swaying gyrating bodies and fast moving feet. It was a wonderful wind down, utterly exhausting and totally invigorating. For the drive back, Gustav joined me so that I would have some 'voice'. We headed over to Pearl's family house - a brother - where I joined Barbara and Wes, Mariano and LixMario. Gegam and Yoon( an artist student of Ryms who lived with her husband and children on Jeju Island) took off for the hotel with whom Gegam had some affiliation - a 5 star. Alicia and James headed to the in-laws. I took room 1 directly off the living room, Barbara and Wes were off the bathroom's right and Mariano and LixMario shared a room to the bathroom's left as they both were heavy snorers and served to cancel one another. My padding was slim on the floor so I retrieved or relieved, depending on one's view, a heavier mat from the living room as we had lost one member, hence I thought it to be free. Pearl arrived much later seeking the mat but she fast returned to one of the other apartment rooms upstairs so I slept reasonably well. It had been quite a day indeed. Great fun. ********* March 31 - Friday Breakfast was scrambled eggs and bread made by Pearl who so generous offered to serve as chef. I felt deprived - what no kimchi and oxtail soup! The group headed out to Sejon Centre to check things out and to commiserate with our fellow artists. It was a shortened day as MinJung and family were hosting the group to an extravaganza luncheon at an 'authentic' restaurant on a tree lined street housing some of the best and unusual contemporary art I've seen - fun pieces, innovative and all with a whimsical feel (four men reading newspapers; each with a different pose and hat and manner; sitting on nothing but space and time then there was the plank being held by two cleverly crafted individuals at either end - purpose: for the everyday person(me or you) to actually sit on the plank thereby using it as an actual street bench. The restaurant was below street level - Two large display windows highlighted tools used by farmers and authentic formal dress wear for both man and woman. The room itself was one extremely large room set on a raised platform where tables suddenly materialized from a folded stack at the side, seating pillows assigned each patron; with shoes off and either on bended knee or sitting cross legged the warmth of the heated floor eased the muscles as the lavish feast was laid out before us - each table being divied into 4 patron segments. The feast consisted of several fishes, stews, kimchi(s), beans, noodles, mini rice cake japchae 'pizza', rice bowls, clear rice broth, soju, tea and the list goes on. At the head of the room on yet another raised platform was a stage where young ladies in robes played authentic music (Gugak) which has a triple rhythm(three beats per measure) - Jeong-ak is more classical as verse to minsogak which is folk. Jeong-ak is slow and solemn; minsogak such as nong-ak (farmer's music) or pansori(epic slow song) are shamanistic music with a fast and vigorous pace. There was also a blending of gracious court dances as countered by the mirrored life of the folk dance. The whole effect was simply wonderful. To feast while one was courted by splendid voices and lyrical music left nothing to want for. It was truly a wonderful luncheon and most kind of her parents to host not only such a great number of people but also such a lavish feast and a cultural event. We returned to the gallery satiated. We had a few hours left us at the gallery so we all decided to make use of the time with sights near Sejon Centre. Stevie, Bruce, Ahmad, Gina and baby (they had formed a good bond as all were staying at MinJung's parents' house and baby served to link them to Min Jung's baby) opted for the Palace while, Denise lead me and Gegam, Barbara and Wes to a set of galleries just past the Imperial Palace. Mariano and LixMario remained at the gallery along with Jung JB. Alicia and James were doing family and friends. We parted ways at the guardhouse, each taking our separate adventure. The contemporary gallery scene was explosive - Our first stop was to see the well know icon of Korean painters, Chun Kyung Ja. Her exposition was most unusual in that it was everything but Asian. Having lived her 20's in Paris and Europe she was heavily influenced by the French - Her Gauguin and Rousseau intrigue were well represented - She painted a young woman who it appeared to be one and the same throughout though 'she' aged slightly, with fixed white and yellow 'stoned' eyes, long flowing hair topped with flowered head lay, white tipped nose, the island dreamer as contrasted by her animal paintings. The hall was filled with French period music; sketches with colour numbers (never filled in) of people, and animals. There were some personal artifacts and a film showing her working and in life. She lived well into her 80's. Outside and to the rear of the front building was yet another housing more of her personal items - hair brushes, gloves, a wall of photographs highlighted by the lone male with whom she walked hand in hand down a Paris street, her skirt blowing in the breeze. It was the only picture of a man anywhere. The next two galleries were totally modern -Yujin Kang, a student at Seoul University, had a fantastic exhibit of her work. Huge, simply huge paintings in enamel, raised about a quarter of an inch giving the feeling of looking INTO the painting - her influence was Hockney and the pieces were water - swimming pools, beach chairs - her colours were electric, primary red, blue, white, yellow out of a tube - slashed and dripped and lined neatly to the edge much done as if in negative photo. There were superb. Then there was Jae Nam Kim who took enlarged photos and superimposed them on canvas and then used charcoal so the effect of black and white sea scapes - water foam cresting ebbing - looked so soft to the touch that one was compelled to lean in as if to smell the blackness. These too were large format - one or two to a wall. We checked out gallery after gallery up and down the street. Then Barbara, Wes and I struck out on our own, heading up to the shopping area we had gone to on our city tour accompanied by Renee, Pearl's right hand. This day was sunny and inviting. We crossed the street by the giant billboard of Picasso (his work was coming to town at the end of the month) and headed up, hitting a few more galleries along the way. One in particular caught my eye with a sculpture of compression. The artist had created plaster sculptures, some painted others not, in realistic poses i.e. A man with a cap squatting, then he had compressed it so that the total height was about 3 feet high, legs and shoes extended as a clowns' might be, facial and body parts elongated. It was a fantastic effect. The window piece was of a man reclining on his arm at chin then totally squeezed together like an accordion so that one had to 'look' for the recognizable parts. It really was remarkable work. The Gallery Godo also was showing Heinrich Lorenzen's water and pastel beach scenes. The open air market or better said the long narrow street with tiny shops tucked neatly beside one another with their wares curb side was teeming with people and exciting treasures. We passed the familiar pastry and paper shop from before. The small cement frogs stood sentry at the entrance of the street, crouching by the dripping water that ran down into a trough. This was the meeting place if lost or separated. By the frogs. Barbara and Wes were in search of an art store and ceramic tea service. Both of which were located and purchased. I loaned Renee some money for the purchase of a very kicky stripped skirt. A real 'must buy' and Wes bought her a silk scarf. I was simply looking - a silk scarf for Alyson and me, two gun powder stone mask necklaces for Alyson, a small scoop for tea or sugar or whatever carved out of a wood like material (the scoop itself being an open leaf whose back was meticulously veined - a small creature toying with an acorn sat atop the leaf's end), a few bracelets for Alyson. I had bought some interesting rice paper the day of the city tour and also a 'stamp' which has yet to be carved - a thin high block of deep blood red coloured soap stone with a tiny creature atop - (one's thumb was compelled to rub the animal's back) I will design an artist's stamp/logo and then use it for my work. That basically was the extent of my shopping. Checking our time, we four then weaved our way back across unfamiliar streets and through alley ways all the while Wes clicked and clicked - aware that the Sejon Centre was 'over there' I led the merry group and to our delight found ourselves directly in front of our intended. We had spent a fascinating afternoon indeed. James and Alicia joined at the gallery later, having missed the luncheon affair and our gallery hunting. We closed out the afternoon by chatting, wandering and talking to prospective buyers. I had taken the liberty of literally writing the paintings' names in Korean on the wall next to the printed English version as to explain 'Shadow People' or 'Peace without War - the Quiet Silence' was somewhat difficult. This way all I had to do was say it in English and then point to the wall and invite the viewer to read the words hoping that a glimmer of recognition would appear opening room for an attempted conversation about the process of the painting and/or its political/social meaning. The intent, as it was. It seemed to work and those intended seem to appreciate my attempt at communication. I had had various artists sign my catalogue on Opening day so it was fun to simply 'check their work out' now. Chun-Ok Kim painted with traditional Korean paper - heavy stock and then cut holes out i.e. a lily pad etc. it was quite unusual. Syun Tateishi painted European style realism futuristic avant-garde (one would never have thought the work to be Asian but rather Swedish or Scandinavian.) Kim Moon Ja was a water colourist who sold regularly - landscapes of towns, villages, snow scapes, mountains. Wonderful colour, great technique. Bong-goo Cho worked in stone - a stone that had a melted look/feel to it - nothing defined but a feeling of two people or a crowd gathered. Won Lee was a sculpturist Modigliani styled, some life size, others just shapes suggesting utilitarian use. Jung In-Jae was another water colourist whose work ranged from loose wash to tightly controlled brush of mountainous stone with cascading waters. Ji Hyun Kim was a young artist who used acrylic - painted flowers onpanels - large format - layered look. Na Hyun Kim had a fascinating self-portrait with a dynamic red/yellow background in which she was wearing a short coat whose pattern was made up of faces and people - her history in short. She had completely captured herself - a simple Asian girl of tradition immersed in history. She on the other hand was totally contemporary. Jeanne Park painted large format swirling layered colours that formed a landscape of farmland rising to air. The array of talent was exciting. And then it was time to leave. Alicia, James and I would be spending the night at the in-laws house but not before stopping at the fish man's restaurant. The fish man artist is Woo Seung Yoon who works in metal, sculpting schools of large and smaller silver sword-like fish native only to JeJu Island(they rather resembled a pike - his sculptures were fish and schools some within plexi 'water' of blue, green or red while other fish swam atop - all suspended on plexi - large office lobby size pieces. We drove through winding streets filled with neon and activity to a small restaurant neatly set with wooden tables - wooden slabs with their own history. I digress for a moment to set up our arrival. An interesting occurrence at the gallery Opening had replayed itself out over the next few days to a surprising conclusion. I noticed an energetic hyped man being greeted by Mariano, Pearl and Gustav. He was accompanied by a tall interesting looking fellow who made his way through the gallery stopping at my wall to look at the paintings. The friend passed me by with a brusque attitude. His friend coaxed him to taking a look. He passed me with a set" So nice to meet you" and continued walking through me. I paused and then approached him - "you have not met me nor do you know me" I replied much to his horror. He turned and left with great speed. The following day he again came to the gallery to the same rush of hellos from fellow artists and again walked through me without a word. I thought - a rude person indeed but of no consequence. As we entered the restaurant low and behold the extended hand was non other than this man - our fish man. He took a breath and then extended his hand and said in as low voice, "nice to meet you" it had been fated that we should have come full round. Woo's wife was the cook and she had whipped up a platter of these thin bony fish and then a deep dish of baked in a salsa kind of sauce with silver noodles, kimchi etc. Beer and soju was served and it was yet another feast to wash down the luncheon feast. Woo beamed with pleasure at our appreciation of his food and surroundings. The bathroom was yet another extension of the Asian response to a toilet - I had heard about these for years but this was my first experience, many would follow - the trough where one squatted and hoped the aim was good and then with even greater hope prayed that one's knees hadn't locked and that one would be able to stand upright for the flush. I marveled at the toilet complexities - from the narrow trough to the heated seat complete with panel buttons for 1. Bidae straight / 2. Bidae upward/ 3. Air dry. One extreme to another and sometimes the bathrooms actually gave one the choice of styles. (forgive my spelling) With that said, we gave our thanks and Woo Seung Yoon in turn removed a square block from his wall with four fish in blue plexi water and presented it to Alicia. Most appreciatively we turned to leave when he turned to me and handed me a very long silver metal fish. I was quite surprised and extremely flattered. I thanked him very much and he repeated 'nice, very nice.' We were off. Our cab headed up the narrow roads onto the highway speeding off to the Kim's- James' in-laws who lived in a 'select' gated high rise apartment cluster over looking the Hangang River in Yong San Ku Ie Chon Dong area. This river runs through Seoul east and west. It is crossed by 23 bridges (each with a distinct light pattern show at night) and there are excursion boats touring the river's sites. Along the 41.5 km long riverbank are parks, soccer and baseball fields, volleyball and basketball courts, swimming pools and water skiing, yachting and fishing venues. The sight from the Kims' house apartment 7th floor at night was splendid. The apartment was lavish and spacious with a blending of modern and traditional fair; a large walk space around the apartment perimeter housed plants and gave the illusion of being inside a garden. Mrs. Kim was laboriously labouring to create yet another full bible translation in Korean by hand - a labour of love for each of her children. Korea, although it supports Shamanism, Buddhism, and Confucianism, is truly a Christian city (not to be confused with Roman Catholic) as easily noted by the number of extremely high neon crosses that dot the skyline throughout the city and neighbourhoods. Again the floor was my night place. We spent the next few hours talking about the show, about my thoughts on Korea. A hot shower followed and then to bed - Alicia and James were across the hall on a bed with an adjoining bathroom, I was on the floor with my own private bathroom down the hall. The heat from the floor was soothing and the bed welcoming after a long and interesting day. The Kim's hospitality was very welcomed. ********* April 1 - Saturday Breakfast was peanut butter and toast for me - ginseng tea. Alicia joined. James wanted something else so he headed out for a quick bite and then returned. Mrs. Kim was disappointed that she had not had an opportunity to serve us 'correctly' but we said 'next time' - we left our bags there for our return sleep that night as the next two would be at art camp in the mountains. Alicia, James and I took a cab to visit yet another of her childhood friends at a corner coffee shop before she gathered something left at her brother's. While Alicia scurried off to her brother's house, her friend, James and I got into a discussion on relationships, men and women, needs and desires, sex and family counseling. It was rousing and liberating I think for her friend to verbalize such things to a non Korea; James simply enjoyed being included in such frank talk about men and women coping in today's society. With Alicia's return, another set of Good-Byes were delivered. James headed out in the rain to visit his friends ( we would not see him until later that evening at the Kim's) while Alicia and I accepted a drive to a cab stop where we then headed over to visit yet another Vancouver friend, Philip, at his office - silencers on train tracks - mechanisms to reduce the sound of metal on metal was his business. Philip was a tall good looking man in his late 50's with an attractive wife who looked in her early 40's though she also was but a year or two younger than him. He took the time to show us the plant and discuss his invention and use thereof; then we and he and his wife took in a delightful luncheon of sushi etc. The meal was sumptuous. It was a delightful break on a windy rainy morning. His office was in a new area of outer Seoul which primarily served high tech businesses in giant high rise glass buildings that looked out on to a sea of glass and steel. It was still raining when we exited the building so we opted for a cab to Sejon Centre where we spent the remainder of the day (what was left of it). Pearl was hosting dinner at her brother's house (where I had spent one night). It was again a sumptuous feast. Long low table lavishly supporting a variety of fish platters, noodle bowls, sushi plates, vegetables, kimchi, beer, soju, rice bowls, soups and on and on. We dined, laughed, drank, told stories about each other, cheered one another - truly a wonderful evening of camaraderie overflowing. And then it was time for Alicia and I to depart. We took a cab directly to the Kim's house as the next morning was an early departure for our camp site, and packing had yet to be done. ********* April 2 - Sunday Alicia, James and I were to meet the caravan at a small village outside of the city proper, as we had come from the Kim's residence. Our cab stopped a few blocks away from the intended meeting place. We trekked with our overnight bags, early as usual. We picked up some fruit along they as a contribution to the household. A car driven by Pearl's husband and a van parked in the parking lot. Morning greetings were waved and verbalized and then Alicia, James and I joined Pear's husband - We were off. - Korean filled the car then both Alicia and James promptly fell asleep. I traveled in silence once again. Finally the car pulled up at a midway rest area for foods. The caravan came to a halt and everyone fell out. This was the second trough bathroom. The interior of the 'restaurant was run like a well oiled factory - one chose the food from a large display board complete with picture, then placed the order at the desk. A team of cooks and assembly workers with white gloves and well starched uniforms then processed the order and called out the number. Red bean with noodle was again my favourite. Along the front porch of the long building were vendors selling sweet potato string fries ( delectable and addictive). red bean buns so Alicia and I purchased two boxes - again to add to the house. Manmulsang rocks in the Geunmgangsan Diamond Mountains were the site of the Art Camp. No mountains in Korea have been more admired than the Geungangsan Mountains. Poets, painters and writers have gained inspiration from the beauty of these 110 mountains. With 12,000 pinnacles and hundreds of valleys, odd-shaped cocks, crystal clear waters, endless saw-tooth ridges, diverse flora and fauna, these mountains have truly earned their praise. The drive was about 3+hour from the city proper over immaculate pristine country side, up and through farmlands - rocky and seemingly barren after the barley crop season. Hugh concrete arms stretching /towering in wait for the newly yet to be constructed flat segments of freeway that spanned across the land, cutting through the mountains connecting the city to the farmlands which would not only link the outer world to the inner economic world but ultimately pace out of existence the small local farmers and the fast 'leaving' youth that are turning the country villages into ghost towns. It was simply amazing to see the continuous construction - long stretches of completed freeway dotted by the huge concrete standing 'arms' - the foundation pillars. The drive last another hour plus. We turned off at a dirt road in the middle of rocky farmland and traveled along a narrow path that banked a low-lying riverbed. A large white house sat on the top of a rise - large veranda two story house. There were two adjacent houses similar style and a very large porch that extended in front across the grass; it was actually the roof of yet another long bungalow style house that had 10 rooms. This was a retreat area. Below was a once raging river now low and meambling over huge flat smoothly washed rock slabs, multi coloured and heavily veined. Across the water was a high, very high wall of rock. My immediate thought was that King Kong would appear any moment over the crest pounding on his mighty chest. The overall area was reminiscent of the east coast ridge - Maine, Massachusetts, Vermont. Granite rocks cut and standing tall as they had for centuries before and would for centuries to come. These were the images of many artists' palate. I found the sight totally absorbing. A light mist rain continued. We entered the house and divied up the rooms - Ahmad and Gina and baby, Stevie and Bruce in the living room; Alicia, me, MinJung and Barbara and Wes in the bedroom off the living room. Each had its own bathroom though hot water seemed to be an illusionary feature. A quick dousing with a bucket; quick soap down and then that wake up call! Utterly refreshing and that which certainly got the system going - all this done on bended knee or squat position in a tub. Mariano, LixMario and James took the upper loft area. The building was light knotty pine and beautifully constructed . No furniture other than a circular table, short couch, a stove, microwave, water cooler, flatware and dishes. Television in both upstairs and living room. No towels were supplied except for a face cloth and floor bedding was the order of the night. (I always bring a towel and face cloth as one is not traveling 5 star as an artist). I helped lay out the rooms, stowed my gear and then took my camera and headed down to the riverbed crossing the grass area and slip sliding down the bank to the road below. The grass in Korea is a long haired blond straw - green in season - utilitarian for basket weaving and stringing. Bouncy to the foot. I then scaled the wall to the water bed below and began to click away - I walked along the flat stones careful not to slip on the slick rock. The eerie feeling of being somewhere alone - almost in a primitive time - was electrifying. Breath came out of my nose and mouth. I turned up my jacket collar. There was a large ice flow lodged into a rock cove across the swiftly flowing water, a small make- shift bridge with widely spaced planks crossing the cold water. I clicked and clicked. Large stone piles, creatively assembled in remembrance of those dead and those 'to be' remembered dotted the landscape. I quickly put together two small piles to leave a part of me and mine there for all time. Those stones would in turn be added to by others, thereby assimilating cultures and mind souls, together in harmony. I was transported a very peaceful state of mind. And then it was time to return so I continued to scamper over the stone slabs to the end of the wall area where I found a set of stairs. The moment had come to an end. I rejoined the bustling of my fellow artists in preparation for the planned outdoor festivities. We all adjourned to the open fire pit hut, which resembled something Tahitian in nature One descended a flight of wooden railroad ties down to the lower grounds next to the swimming pool now appreciatively taken over by two ducks and their nest. We huddled in our winter coats, scarves, hats and gloves. We extended our hands over the open fire that was stoked with large wood pieces which in turn turned the coals underneath a hot red-white which in turn were shoveled out and then placed on to two small cook out grills which cooked the seasoned pork. From time to time the wood strips were added to the grills and then fanned so that the coals would increase in heat. Sparks flew from the 'Tahitian' hut along with the soju and whiskey that served to temper the spicy kimchi and a heavy smoke blanketed the already dense wet air. I don't eat pork so the wild mushrooms and little bit of noodles had to serve but frankly, I had eaten quite a bit on the drive up what with the midway stop and combined with not being a person who eats three meals a day as I had throughout the trip I didn't mind the minimal dinner offerings. There was plenty of drink, song, and chatter to suffice well into the wee hours. Barbara and I found ourselves having a hard time breathing what with the heaviness of the smoke. And so the evening slowly came to an end leaving time for reflection - on sights, tastes and smells of the day passed. A group went down to the third house and sang the night away at the karaoke machine. MinJung and Mariano, LixMario, Pearl and Gustav all closed up around 2:30am. ********* April 3 - Monday The air still held a faint trace of smoke. The sky was clear and the clouds of the day before were gone. Sun and blue skies was in order. We chowed down on bits and pieces of foods brought up from the city below. Coffee and rice; kimchi and other assortments of like kind. I was not in need of much food. Gustav came by the main house at 6am and said 8am was 'move out time'. Slowly all were awakened, ready to go. We were scheduled to go to the beach - to the East Sea. We pilled into cars - Jung and I took the back seat of Pearl's husband's car as we were told to continue in the cars we had come in. Alicia and James joined Pearl in her car. The caravan moved out, down the dirt road to the main and then took a left up into the hills. We drove up and over, through farmland and somewhat barren mountains, small villages and more farmlands. Jung told me about the history of Korea and the economic status, the emptying of villages for city life and the artist who were moving in taking over old housing and now abandoned school houses. How sad it was that the old way of life was being erased as the need no longer existed. The passenger in the front seat started to sing folk songs - he sang the full way to the beach without a stop, one song after another. And then we saw it - first the giant billboard with the huge ocean liner atop the rocky cove. Noah's arc atop the mountain. I really did not know what to make of the billboard- huberous on the part of the ad firm. We wound our way along the coast downward, passing a large American naval ship and a Russian submarine, both in dry dock now transformed into a museum. And then there it was - The Cruise liner atop the mountain. Big as life. Bigger even. We drove through the small beach town then up the hill to the oddity. There was a charge for entry so we passed even though the ship now served as a hotel and restaurant. One would think that a drink and a souvenir shop could have covered the 'lost' cost of any entrance fee - in reality they had already lost patronage by being greedy. We headed down to the town below for a lunch. Pearl's friend - science professor, now retired and his wife and her friend, greeted us. A most charming man who was to host the luncheon. Two table segments were drawn - a long main table for sushi and assorted fish and the ubiquitous assortment of kimchi and another table for non-fish. I, Alicia and the drivers of the other cars/vans joined the tofu table - tofu, noodles and a seafood soup and of course kimchi. Both tables enjoyed Beer and soju and after a rather lengthy relaxing lunch we took off for the beach. We walked over the train tracks and made our way to the beach and bare feet. Apparently the town itself had been highlight in a famous Korean film. After that, the hordes came out of curiosity, which forced the train to initiate daily commute to the small seaside community. People take the night train which then serves as their 'hotel'. They arrive in the morning, spend the day at the beach and after dinner return via train, once again using it as 'hotel' - in short, a delightful weekend get a-way for little expenditure. The water was emerald green, the sand light caramel, clean and fine. The beach itself was long and narrow with several rocky areas raised above the water's line forcing the green sea to crash and spew up white foam. It was fresh, salty, refreshing and cold. As we were there for but a short time we walked along the water's edge chasing and being chased by the ebb and flow of the tide. We had brought our paints with us with intent to do some actual work but it seemed too little time to really focus on a project so with camera in hand I clicked the day away. And then it was time to return to the camp for yet another feast. Pearl and husband had gone off in search of fish for the night's dinner. I had left my coat in the trunk of the car only to realize that as I sped off in the van (Stevie and Bruce had commandeered me so that I would not be riding in an all Korean car yet once again). I thought surely the 'catch of the day' would never find itself spilling over onto my Coco Channel coat but alas I was wrong. And there is nothing quite as potent as fresh fish juice that has had time to seep in to silk and plush. I apologized to my van compatriots as I removed the ill-fated coat while at the rest spot. Open window and and.... did not help much; neither did the soap and water approach back at the camp. Needless to say the coat was not worn until the following morning when simply out of sheer cold I shoved my arm into a still very wet smelly sleeve. The fish coat went into retirement, not being worn throughout the Tokyo adventure - a lightweight fleece took over - and upon return to Los Angeles the coat promptly underwent a double cleaning. Dinner was again down at the campfire - smoke, a variety of fish, assorted kimchi, whiskey and soju galore. I retired to the house as did many of my compatriots out of exhaustion. By this time Wes had become quite ill - stomach and head - Barbara was suffering chest - James had a head cold and he had left to return to Seoul instead of taking in the beach with us - and I had a bronchial cold that didn't subside until states side and medication took hold. The fever kept me warm. Later that evening we were asked to DO an art project that encapsulated our adventure at art camp. I choose to do a collage of the rocks by the riverbed, as did Stevie with her beautiful line drawing; MinJung also chose the rocks. Barbara did a jin jang design of colour; LixMario did a cut out three-dimension design; Pearl a textured burnt piece; Mariano a seaside in yellow and red... the pieces were to be left as a token of our appreciation. Karaoke resumed well into the night for those who were capable; the rest of us bedded down to catch a few winks before the long journey back into the city the following day. ******** April 4 - Tuesday This was the slowest moving group ever. Tired and ill (Wes was in terrible shape with his stomach - Barbara had trouble breathing - I had a temperature and between constant stomach runs and a nose that refused to stop I would say we were a sorry group) but still willing to participate, we closed up the house, put away the bedding, washed the dishes and took long last glances at a most unusual camp site. The ride back was long, or so it just seemed. The caravan again made the midway stop and then wended it's way back to Sejon Center where we closed up the gallery and decide the packing order of the paintings being returned back to Asto Museum Gallery. Alicia took off to join James while Gustav and Pearl remained behind to close up the gallery. A chartered bus awaited the rest of us - Seoul University was the goal - an enormous campus rather like UCLA in layout and buildings of brick, high tech, old and new. Sculpture abounded everywhere. We went to see the art department and to meet the dean of the University. And to my surprise he was an alumn of UCLA as am I , Jung and Bruce. Wes teaches there. And so here in Korea yet another common ground. Each professor was introduced while we sipped on tea and then a tour of each lab/work space was extended. It was enjoyable and good to be up and walking even though we sniffled and blew and coughed and groaned throughout. We looked to be a very ragged group of artists indeed as we were still in our traveling clothes from the camp. And with the close of the tour we headed out to a festive evening hosted by Angie Min, Alicia's friend, at the cultural restaurant. Considering the Koreans find clothing and being well kempt important, we were a sorry sight to behold. Alicia and James had taken a shower and a change of clothing back at the in-laws; Daniel, James' friend and Angie were dressed for an evening out. Instructions to Gustav had been incorrectly relayed as one of my paintings materialized - semi wrapped - with intent that I was to carry this as hand luggage upon my departure. I had brought a very large box over from Los Angeles with me as part of my luggage but to do the same with a stop off of 5 days in Tokyo - well that was not going to happen. The painting went back to Gustav with corrected instructions and the evening continued onward. The feast was similar to the lavish luncheon MinJung's family had thrown - tables divided into groups of four and pushed together to form one long table - fishes, stews, rice pizza, assorted kimchi, vegetables, glass noodles, fruit, soju, beer... truly another extravaganza. Wes was so ill he could not even sit at the table for fear of looking at food. I simply reached for anything other than kimchi, fish or spicy foods as my stomach was already on the run not to mention a head cold that was well beyond hope at this point. The evening was wonderful with cultural music, dance and ambiance. Truly a wonderful hosting by Angie. Warm Thank You were handed out with hugs as this was to be the last of the Korean experience. Tokyo was tomorrow! We headed out by cab towards the in-laws with a planned stop at Alicia's brother's house to pick up or drop off. We were to wait for an hour and half until 9:30pm for James's sisters to come then it was another hour or two of driving as no one seemed to know just where we were going. I had had it by then, exhausted, ill and wearing the camp clothes and in need of a real shower with hot water as non-had been had for two days. Mrs. Kim's mat floor never looked so heavenly. A hot shower, a quick laundry at 11pm, a repacking and sleep was the ticket. I was truly exhausted. ********* April 5 - Wednesday Up at 5am and out by 6am with a belly full of dumplings, kimchi, and and and all lovingly prepared by Mrs. Kim. My plane was leaving 10 minutes before Alicia and James' - I on Japan Air and they on Korean. This was but a 3+ hour trip - a mere skip and hop. Then TOKYO!!!! |
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